Aristocrat French Bulldogs-Breeding Better Dogs (and Eng. Bulldog Stud Service)

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BEFORE You Get Your Puppy


This book is simply a MUST READ for anyone thinking of getting a puppy.  With a little preparation, you can raise a dog that never makes a single house-soiling or destructive chewing mistake, is calm and quiet on command or when home alone, and is gentle and confident around people.

 For more advice about selecting and raising a puppy please see our Training Textbook and related videos. 

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BEFORE You Get Your Puppy.pdf 2.68 MB

Stuff To Get Before Your New Puppy Comes Home:



*throughout the list there will be little notations: see “crate training” for instance. All the mentioned literature will be CD rom that you will receive in your puppy pack, it is packed full of anything & everything you need to know about raising a bullmastiff puppy from training, to first aid and if there's any questions you can't find the answer to in all the information please never hesitate to email me, especially with medical questions-puppies get into things just like little toddlers only worse so because they use their mouths as a toddler would their hands! Unless it's a life or death emergency always email me first and send the email as "priority-high" & I will answer it right away, although I never take chances with the pups there isn't much I haven't seen & most of the time they are things you can easily treat at home and I can save you hundreds even thousands of dollars in vet bills that could better be spent on food, treats & toys :)



 A crate, such as a Vari Kennel 200 (this is the size you want for when you first take your puppy home. (see Crate Training information)  


The SIZE of the crate is VERY important for use in house training. The rule of thumb is the crate should be large enough for your puppy to stand up, turn around & lay down comfortably with room for a food bowl, if the crate is larger than that it will allow your puppy the extra space to use as a ‘bath room’, puppies will not soil the area where they sleep (unless they have been left in the crate too long). When the puppy first goes home (around 8 weeks old) I do not recommend leaving them crated more than 3 to 4 hours max. as they get older their bladder control will develop so they will be able to hold it longer. The puppy will have already been trained to go all night in the crate (approx. 6-7 hrs), but only that length of time at night.


 *it is also a good idea to send something from home, anything with the smell of your home on it to be put into the crate with the puppy, so when they go home it will already be familiar to them, since as high as 90% of the information processed in a dogs brain is from smell. Some suggestions would be an old couch pillow, a t-shirt a family member has worn, something along those lines, as long as it is nothing that would be dangerous if the puppy chewed.



A Water Bottle (I can order this as well if you like), I like the water bottles as opposed to a water bowl because they can’t spill them, or go swimming, and they will keep the puppy much dryer, they also cannot chew on the bottle since it is on the outside of the door. I know some people don’t put water in the crate for the puppy (so they will not have to urinate) & from a medical standpoint this isn’t a good idea, they need to have fresh water available to them at all times, as with all babies they can dehydrate very quickly.



Blankets, towels or a crate pad, Something for the puppy to lay on that can easily be washed, I cut twin size blankets into 4 pieces (removing any boarder that could be pulled off), this way they are much easier managed when using the washing machine. If you use a bed stay away from cedar filled beds (cedar, although it smells really nice, is well known for causing contact dermatitis allergies in dogs.) Crate mats made of foam or polyfill are great & keep your puppy warm & well padded. If you use foam just make sure the puppy doesn’t chew or try to eat it.


Plan ahead on clearing your schedule (such as a weekend) or longer if at all possible, when your new puppy arrives home this is the most important time for bonding. So try to get as much time free to

spend with the new baby as possible.  It is also very important to have a trustworthy & knowledgeable

person lined up in advance to “puppy-sit” if you are unable to be home at least every 3 hours during the day to begin with, or for emergencies that you are unable to take the puppy with you. Boarding the puppy in a kennel is not recommended until they have had their full series of Distemper/Parvo Complex vaccines (total for 3, give a month apart).

Note: Puppy Day Care is usually available in most areas & if it is a good reputable place it will be a good place for continued socialization for your puppy, but make sure that the people either working their or

that run the day care are knowledgeable in identifying sick puppies & making sure they stay home & not come to the day care to potentially infect the other puppies. Until your puppy has had all three of his Distemper/Parvo Complex vaccines he will not have a full immunity & there is a risk of him contracting these diseases if he is exposed by an infected dog or a person that had contact with an infected dog.

But if the puppy day care is run correctly then the risk should be minimal & the benefits from the

continued socialization is worth the small risk. See “Continued Socialization”. It is also a good idea for

you to be able to recognize signs of these common canine diseases (for in puppy’s they can be fatal if not treated right away). I will list the symptoms in “Health”. I am also available to answer any questions you might have almost all the time. I check my email frequently through the day, & can almost always return your email within hours.

If you are able to come home from work every 3 hours (4 max.) to let your puppy out, that is fine, but

don’t feel bad about keeping him in the crate when no one is there to watch him, this is VERY important

to keep him safe. Puppy’s naturally will chew on things & they don’t know the difference between a toy

& an electrical cord, they need rely on you to keep them safe & if you are unable to watch them putting them in their crate is the ONLY way you will know that they are safe! It is no different than putting a

human baby into a play pen or crib when you are unable to supervise their activities. (see list of

common household toxins).


Pick up a few toys for the puppy to chew on, he/she will be teething and will need nice safe toys to

chew on to help break those teeth through (it is not uncommon to find a “baby” tooth stuck in a rope

toy or rubber toy along with a little blood, this is perfectly normal at this age!) Cotton Robe toys, rubber toys like Kong- brand name and even some human baby teething toys…just make sure they can not be ripped or swallowed! Ice cubes help to sooth sore gums & cut teeth & they LOVE them! Also raw carrots

are a good treat to give to the pup, they too (if kept cold in the fridge) will help to sooth sore gums, they also help prevent tartar build up on their teeth. But do watch them with carrots because they could


Toys are VERY important in training your puppy, because every time he/she try’s to chew on something

that is not acceptable you give them a verbal command (always using the same tone of voice for bad behavior… lower tones, and higher, happy tones for good behavior, I don’t think it is necessary to

punish a puppy by hitting them…if you don’t actually catch them in the act you cannot discipline them

at all…it will have no meaning because they will be unable to associate you being mad at them with anything other that what they are doing at the moment! Dogs are very intelligent, but they have no real concept of time, you can leave the house, forget something, turn right around & come back through the door no more than just a few minuets after leaving & the dogs will act like you’ve been gone for years!

You always have a wonderful welcoming committee with dogs! J


When a dog takes off without a leash and is having too much fun romping around to bother “hearing”

you are calling him to come.. and you are becoming more and more fearful because you are afraid he’ll

get hit by a car, and when you finally get his attention and he finally comes to you….well, the first thing

you want to do is kill him for scaring you so least discipline him for not coming when called

(this is one big difference between teaching a human child and a puppy!), but if you do discipline him

you will only reinforce his NOT coming to you when called because he knows now that if he comes to

you he gets in trouble!
They associate either praise or punishment with what they are doing at the moment, not what they did a

few minuets ago, so many dogs are totally confused by this, but if you just understand that they live in

the moment & have no concept of future or past time, they you & your dog will understand each other

very well!

Yes it is hard…but you must PRAISE him when he finally comes…he had no conception of the time that

you spent calling him…the more you praise him the more apt he will be to come the FIRST time you call

him next time. Check into obedience classes & get an appointment. Also obedience training will be a

great help with this as well….but STAY CLEAR of ANY trainer that recommends physically punishing

your dog…this may cause irreparable damage to your dogs personality!!!!  Positive & Negative reinforcement through tone of voice and body language such as hand signals combined with your

lowered change of voice should be all you ever need to train your dog! You MUST be able to understand a dog’s behavior before you can train him out of behavior that isn’t acceptable. Treats are also a wonderful training tool, little bits of cheese, broken milk bones, Cheerios, anything little like that. Bullmastiffs respond very well to food, BUT food praise is something you should not do on any regular basis or soon

You will have another Pavloff’s dog! Alternate praise in the form of verbal (high tones) praise, pats, &

food but in no set pattern, believe me they will pick up on any pattern when it comes to food!


Bullmastiffs adore their people and are more that 100% devoted to their families, they are the most

loving dog you will ever find, it’s because of this that they cannot stand to

think you are angry with them and will keep bugging you until you give them a pat!  They will also want to be were you are and will follow you around the house, you will trip over them more than once, so be prepared.


Somehow I skipped from toys to training to behavior…but it all ties in, really it does! OK, I’ll move on!

But really, if you EVER have any questions regarding training, behavior, medical or something someone

has told you that may not “feel” right, just let me know…I have had many, many years experience with animal medicine, behavior and training…and I DON’T mind answering questions!! I would much rather answer questions than have physical or psychological damage done unintentionally to the puppy/dog.


Even though technically I am a breeder I don’t not associate with other breeders or the breeders circles. There are so many that do such an injustice to originally perfectly good breeds of dogs, if a breed

becomes popular there are always people thinking they are going to cash in on it & don’t care what they breed and invest as little money as possible into their breeding, the health, temperament & longevity of

the dogs usually don’t matter. In the Veterinary business we see the end result of this type of breeding practices & it is heart breaking to the people who bought the puppy & often the puppy is so riddled with health problems they spend most of their life at the vets.

A lot of breeders will pass around information (good, bad & dangerous) like wild fire among their circles; we have seen so many ‘fad’ diets, raw meat, bones, and some very strange & dangerous stuff. There are

few Bullmastiff puppies conceived the old fashion way, they are now surgically implanted (again among the breeders circle).

I heard a breeder of Rottweiler recommending that a bitch with Mastitis (a nursing female with a

mammary gland infection) that the pups continue to nurse off of the infected breasts to drain them…ugh!!! That is infected, puss, that they are recommending the puppies consume…not healthy, nutritious milk!

They actually said that it wouldn’t hurt the pups! And some poor person buys one of these puppies

(if they are lucky enough to survive) with such a poor start in life, can cause damage to their immune system & set them up for a multitude of future health problems, because their poor little bodies had to

try to fight off infection at such a young age and had so little nutrition to grow on, which of course isn’t genetic so they wouldn’t be covered under the health guarantee (if they offer one) and the person

buying the pup would never know. Its practices like this that makes me not what to be associated with most breeders!

READ, READ and read some more (If I haven’t already sent you the list, I can recommend some good Bullmastiff books)…..the more you can familiarize yourself with your breed, Bullmastiffs, the more you will be able to understand certain things they do,  you will be able to expect things in advance, etc. So many people buy a pure bred puppy without researching the breed only to find this isn’t the breed of dog that would best fit their current lives! The puppies, whether they grow up to actually “do” what they were bred for or not, will do what they were bred for naturally….just like you can’t keep a Labrador Retriever out of the water, this is a big part of pure bred dogs!


Ask many questions  of your breeder, if they don’t want to answer the questions, go somewhere else! Your breeder should be willing to answer questions for the rest of that puppy’s life! Happily! J


Food: The puppies have been eating Iams Large breed puppy food dry (which is available to them at all times) then 4 times a day I mix Purina Pro Plan canned puppy food or Iams canned puppy food with the dry food mixed with some warm water. They have also been started in the supplements, Glucosamine & 3-V Caps (amino acids) to they're diets which is wonderful for a nice health coat & skin & helps joint tissue grow strong.


BOWLS: The best bowls are ceramic or stainless steel…plastic bowls (which are ok for water) can cause acne on the puppy’s chin, which can be cleared up using Stridex pads, but it breaks out because of their short muzzles having to jam it into the bowl & driving oils that build up on the plastic surface of the bowl into their pores.


Amounts of food to feed: VERY IMPORTANT!!  Free-feed a giant breed dog, always!! This means only leaving dry food down all the time for your growing puppy… having food available to them at all times they will not “gulp” their food…thinking it will be taken away or gone and not return for a long time….Also by sucking their food down quickly…which will happen if they are fed on a “schedule”, you will avoid a common cause of death in large-giant breed dogs called “Bloat” or Gastric Torsion, this happens when the dog consumes a large quantity of food very fast and gas builds up in their stomach and their stomach becomes a “hot-air balloon” and begins to twist, as the stomach twists slowly around it begins to twist off the intestines which are attached to it, and as if you were twisting a pliable garden hose…you could constrict off the water, this constricts off of any food/bile flow from stomach and also constricts the blood vestals that feed the intestinal and stomach tissue, resulting in fairly rapid death! It is just so much easier to free feed them the dry food only…just fill up their bowl as you see it getting low…easy right!? This way you dog will eat ONLY when he is hungry! It also keeps your dog from becoming obese which can cause a multitude of health problems including heart different than humans in that respect! Fat dogs don’t normally live as long as dogs at a good weight. This also keeps dogs from being aggressive while eating…..I find it unacceptable not to be able to be close to a dog while he is eating, the dog should let you put your hand in between his food and his mouth without a problem…in fact you should be able to remove food from a dogs mouth without the dog becoming defensive. Because the dog trusts you, and trusts that you are not going to keep him from his food…it is just a momentary distraction. When you get your new puppy, give him a treat, and occasionally…only occasionally take it away…just briefly, the puppy will look at you with a confused look on his what is wrong with you….you just gave that to me???! But give it right back to him and praise the daylights out of him…do this occasionally and he will come to realize that it is ok to give some food treat up to you because he most likely will get it back! Also pat him, and touch his body while he is eating…again only occasionally…don’t want to bug him all the time, but this is just to get him used to having you around and very close to him while he is eating without worrying that you are going to steal his food. He will be used to having someone around and won’t worry about it in the least. Your new puppy will have already learned a lot of these lessons before he goes home, but do “practice” with him every once and awhile.


Food Treats: Iam’s puppy biscuits, Milk Bones-small size is good because you can use them for the positive reinforcement in pieces..they break pretty easy. The ONLY safe “real” bone are Sterilized Beef Bones, you can find these most anywhere, but if you can’t let me know, my VetzPets Bully-Boutique carries sterilized beef bones & sterilized cow hooves. Just get a size appropriate for your size puppy….stay away from anything small enough to be a chocking hazard! Also Stay away from PORK anything….very dangerous..or at least they can be, ham, bacon, bacon fat, pig ears, pork bones….anything from a pig can be potentially deadly to a dog (acute pancreatitis). A lot of people are under the false impression that they have been giving their dogs pork products for years without causing any problems, but it isn’t true, it causes a little more & more damage all the time until that one time could have fatal results. I have seen all the stuff that goes wrong working in the veterinary field for so many years…prevention is always the best medicine….an old saying, but very true…it will save you time, emotional energy, pain and suffering on your dogs part, and of course your wallet! With toys that can be torn or chewed and swallowed,  just save those toys for when the pup is supervised, and take it away should it become a swallowing hazard. Choking is always something you want to avoid…and it happens quite frequently (see Himlick for canines), also swallowing foreign objects…and believe me puppies will swallow almost anything! This can cause an intestinal blockage, much like a clogged pipe, your puppy will act fairly normal at first,  and will eat and act ok, but within an hour after he eats he will start to vomit up undigested food..this is because the food cannot go beyond that “clog in the pipe”. Puppies vomit occasionally…no big deal…kind of like human babies “spitting up” but if he vomits a couple of times within an hour after he eats his food then it is always best to have him seen by your vet (he may advise taking X-rays to see what is in there, possibly a Barium series which will show exactly where the blockage is or prove there is no blockage) in the worst case scenario, and there is a blockage, the puppy may have to undergo abdominal/intestinal surgery to have the obstruction removed, or he would most likely die. Often the pups will vomit the foreign body up, sometimes a day or so after they have swallowed it, if you do wait to see if he vomits up, just make sure he is holding water down! They will die of dehydration much quicker than of starvation! As you see it is MUCH easier to watch them and to make sure they DON’T swallow anything, than it is to risk their lives with anesthesia at their age with surgery!


****Training Tip: It is always good to have a few chew toys around so when you catch the little bugger chewing on something bad… like your shoes, or more dangerous, like electrical cords, discipline him….again ONLY if you actually catch him in the act…he won’t understand otherwise and will associate the verbal punishment with EXACTLY what he IS doing at the time of the discipline! Anyway, when you do catch him chewing something unacceptable, tell him “NO” (in a low doesn’t have to be loud, just low)…remove the object and immediately replace it with an OK thing to chew on…like a rubber toy or a sterilized beef bone….when he starts chewing that, praise and praise him…he will VERY quickly make the association! So many people discipline a dog hours after he has chewed something he shouldn’t have (this can all be avoided by crate training!) and the poor thing hasn’t a clue as to what he is being chewed out for (no pun intended!) This will only confuse the daylights out of them, and make them kind of scared of you, and nervous around you…because they will never know when they are going to be yelled at… have to remember dogs…just like little kids, have no real concept of time…5 minuet, 3 days….all the same to them….


Wouldn’t that be nice if we had no concept of passing time or of our inevitable deaths…a blissful thing of being Canine…live for the moment! We can learn far more from our dogs than they can learn from us!  As you have probably figured out by now….everything comes down to teaching your new puppy life’s lessons…no different than raising children, they count on you for their survival, they rely on your for all their physical & emotional needs,  and trust that you will be kind to them…this is why I cannot tolerate hearing of someone neglecting or abusing a animal or a child, they are just so helpless, and the worst part is that they trust you and love you unconditionally, and to have someone breech that trust…it is just unforgivable, but they will forgive these people anyway, both kids & dogs! This is why I am so careful about who gets one of my babies!


Make sure you have a reputable veterinarian ready in case you need him, it is a good idea to set up an appointment for your new puppy, before you get him/her. This way you will be sure to have your new puppy examined by your vet in accordance with the “Health Guarantee”. If your vet recommends another food besides the ones I have outlined and you decide you would like to change the puppies diet, for whatever reason, just do it gradually (this is important!), if you change the puppy’s diet all of a sudden, you will be dealing with diarrhea, and other gastrointestinal problems…I mean it’s not fatal or anything…but it can make your puppy pretty uncomfortable, and cause you a lot of avoidable clean-ups & trips out in the middle of the night! All of which is easily avoided by changing the diet very gradually.  Mix the new food with approx. half of the old food slowly increasing the new food everyday, until the old food runs out…(at least 4-7 days, if you have to pick up a small bag of the old food). I don’t make any money off of recommending the foods I have…I have just found them to be very good nutritionally…but there are surely other brands that are good too. It’s a good rule of thumb to make sure whoever is recommending the “new” food to you doesn’t stand to profit by selling it..that way you are sure the recommendation comes from a “good” place! If you do experience some intestinal problems you are surely welcome to call or email me and I will let you know what is safe to use to correct the problem and what amount. **See list of “First Aid Supplies”



** Human & Animal medicine is very much the same…but don’t think that your dog will metabolize all medications (or foods) the same way you will….such as Tylenol…that can cause severe liver problems ,  permanent damage or death in dogs, it is always FATAL when given to a cat….so be careful not to drop any and if you do, find it before one of your pets does! You will receive all your new puppy’s medical records and vaccination & worming records. It is also a good idea to give your veterinarian your puppy’s microchip ID number for him/her to keep on file. (ask him if he has a microchip reader in his practice…he/she should have one), if so ask him to scan the region (over the shoulder blades at the base of the neck) to make sure his reader picks up the microchip implant.  Also ask if he is available for emergencies..if he/she isn’t make sure that there is a 24 hr. Emergency Clinic near by that he/she uses in their absence…if not,  you may want to consider going someplace else…you want to make sure, especially with babies, that there is medical help available if you need it in a hurry!  If your have questions after you talk to your vet and/or still feel like you have unanswered questions or don’t feel comfortable with the information or course of treatment that they have recommended, please feel free to email me! I am not always available…but 99.5 % of the time I’m close by, and can get back to very quickly.  You can also call another vet and ask their advice to see if it’s in the same “ball park”.


There are some treatments that sound a bit crazy but really work…like if your puppy/dog does get a hold of a bone, especially poultry bones that are very brittle and sharp…but any kind of real bone (other than sterilized beef bones) that you dog might chew and swallow…or other sharp objects that might be chewed and swallowed…even if your not a 100% sure that they did eat it…give them 3-6 cotton ball…slightly pulled apart and mixed with a little gravy or soup….really anything that will flavor the cotton balls and let the dog/puppy eat them up.


How this works is much the same way a ring will get fibers stuck to it, the cotton will wrap around the sharp points of objects the dog has swallowed and allowing it to pass through the stomach and intestines without causing works amazingly well! And of course it doesn’t hurt them in the least if they didn’t actually swallow anything sharp…just a little bulk to their stool, that’s all…but better to be safe than sorry!


It is also an excellent idea to pick up some “Activated Charcoal Capsules” you can pick these up anywhere…they are not prescription and you can get them at Wal-Mart or any other pharmacy…they are over the counter..if you can’t find them just ask the pharmacist. Activated Charcoal also comes in a liquid form…and get that if you can’t get the capsules, it’s just messy… thick, black and tarry.


Use this is there is ever a question as to whether or not you puppy/dog might have ingested something poisonous or could cause gastro intestinal irritation! Even if there’s a slight chance….the charcoal will not hurt them in any way (might see dark colored stool for a little while) but that’s it. Again better to be safe than sorry….even if you are heading to the vet’s in a hurry, pop them down your pups throat before you head out the door….sometimes even a few minuets can make all the difference! The Activated Charcoal works the same way it does in water filters, fish tank filters, and air filters…it absorbs…very quickly…and that’s exactly how it works…it absorbs the possible poison or toxic substance your dog/pup might have swallowed…of course the quicker you get it into them the better the chances of catching it before it is absorbed by their body….but even if it’s been it anyway! There is a Animal Poison Control number (1-888-426-4435) this is NOT free, in fact it is very expensive & you should be able to get the exact same information from your Veterinarian, but I will give you the number in the event that you ever need it. I will also give you a list of toxins, poisons commonly found in the home & what to do if you suspect they have ingested any of the poisons on the list.


You will need to be buying collars for awhile while your Bullmastiff Puppy grows; I always use flat buckle collars to get them used to wearing collars while they are still with me. I put these little collars on very loose so if they get caught on anything it will slip easily over their heads and not choke them, however when they are on a leash you defiantly want to use a no-slip collar…I recommend a martingale type collar since they can't slip out of them yet they will not constrict to the point of choking or causing damage to the puppies trachea, I do not recommend chain chokes for puppies especially since their neck muscles are not fully developed & can cause injury to their trachea. I can recommend good training collars for bully pups (see training too, for pictures of collars) They are very comfortable for the dog and they only time you tighten the collar with the leash is as a correction for pulling when you are’s a quick correction and then as soon as he is walking nicely by your side they collar is let loose again with the leash. This collar is perfect for leash training, but it also keeps your puppy safe by preventing the chance he may slip out of his collar.

You never want to leave this collar on when you are unable to watch him though, if he gets caught on something this collar is designed NOT to slip over his head, so take it off unless you are walking or training him. Keep a flat collar for in the house, and keep it loose enough that it can slip over his head if he ever gets caught on something.

Chain collars are tougher on their necks and tracheas, and the metal prong collars I think are just cruel, if you start working with your puppy teaching him to walk calmly on a leash you would never need to use a collar like that. If there is an instance where you don’t want to train & just go for a relaxing walk before your puppy is totally leash trained a Halter works excellent, the same principle as with a horse, you control the head you control the whole animal, VetzPets Bully-Boutique sells halters made just for Bullmastiffs short muzzles, with a safety strap that attaches to their regular collar.

Grooming supplies: I use a soft horse brush, a rubber horse curry comb and a horse scraper blade to groom my adult dogs. I found these work very well, I use the curry comb first, slowly working it over the dog in a circular motion to lift all the dead hair and dirt from his skin and coat, then I use the scraper blade on the serrated side, this will remove any dead hair and dirt from his coat after it has been lifted by the curry. Then I use the soft brush to smooth out the coat and bring out the natural oils in their skin for a nice glossy shine. (For the babies I use a soft human baby brush, this is nice and soft and gets them used to being brushed). Nail Clippers (if you feel comfortable doing this). If you are not well practiced at clipping nails ask one of your veterinarian’s staff to demonstrate how to do it. Now it happens that every once and awhile you may cut a nail to close…now no dog has EVER died from blood loss from a cut toe nail…however if you do end up getting one too close some styptic powder, or blood stop powder packet into the nail will stop the bleeding, if you don’t have that stuff on hand plain old corn starch…found in most kitchens will work to stop the bleeding. Dogs are very sensitive about their toes/nails so it is always best to go slow (especially because bullies have black nails so you can’t see where the quick is, so like I said if you aren’t well practiced at it ask for a demonstration at your vet’s office…of course if you don’t want to do this at all you can get it done at your vet’s office.

Your puppy will already be very used to having their paws handled & nails clipped, I have been doing it since they were just a few days old. They are also used to being groomed.

Tip: If your pup ever has a wound that is bleeding a lot you can use corn starch to stop the bleeding…this just helps to clot the blood faster. If it is venous blood…this is a lot of bleeding that wouldn’t stop on its own, it would be either fairly rapidly dripping blood or squirting blood, with this type of wound you want to get to your vets ASAP,  BUT before you leave…pack the wound with corn starch and pressure wrap it…use whatever clean material you have, a clean wash cloth rolled up & placed directly over the wound, then tie with a big tube sock snuggly (you Don’t want to cut off the circulation!), just slow the blood flow to the point that it forms a clot. DO NOT wash the wound if it is a suspected venous injury, injury to a vein or artery, this will only remove any formed clots & allow for further uncontrolled bleeding. Then get to the vets right away! Of course if you have gauze pads and bandaging use that, “Vet Wrap” works great & is one of the things on the list of first aid supplies.


**Bullmastiffs are very sensitive to heat and should never be left out in the sun on a hot day, or ever left in a car if the temp. in the car would reach over 80 degrees, not even if the windows are open! Dogs do not have sweat glands (except on their foot pads) so they do not have the fairly efficient cooling system we do. A dog’s cooling system is his muzzle (nose) the longer the dog’s muzzle the more effective cooling system he will have, the shorter the muzzle (as with Bullmastiffs) the less effective of a cooling system they will have. If you suspect your dog is over heated, excessive panting, cool him off gradually, but steadily & get him to the Vet’s ASAP, it doesn’t take long for their brain to swell & death follows shortly after. Again the best medicine is prevention!


I will be sending the list of first aid supplies to have on hand next. I am also in the process of writing a manual “First Aid & Prevention for Bullmastiffs” which I will send out (no charge) to all my puppy people as soon as it is completed


A Brief Explanation On the Importance of Socialization

Socialization is important to the overall well-being of your dog because it will provide him with the ability to develop skills to cope with new experiences in a positive way, therefore reducing your dog’s stress.

What is Socialization?

Socialization is the process of exposing dogs to new environments and situations. It helps them to feel more comfortable when encountering new things, animals, people and experiences. Socialization is especially important during puppyhood with the first critical socialization time as eight-twelve weeks of age.

Socialized pups are typically happier, friendlier, more predictable and able to handle stress better. Under-socialized pups often grow to become fearful, shy, anxious, and sometimes even fearfully-aggressive adult dogs because they lack the skills to cope with new situations.

Socialization should not end with puppyhood but is more of a lifetime journey. Though the foundation for your dog’s behavior is laid during the first few months, responsible pet owners reinforce social skills and continually expose their dog to new social experiences throughout the dog's entire life.

Ideas for Socializing Your Dog:

There are tons of ways to socialize your dog. You just need to be sure to make time to socialize your pup or adult dog by actively seeking new experiences that will be positive encounters. Here are a few ideas to get you rolling:

  • Puppy Kindergarten or Obedience Classes: Every dog should learn to be well behaved around other people and dogs. A structured class will give your dog a chance to practice obedience skills while meeting and greeting new dogs and people.
  • Parks: Visit your local parks. Take plenty of treats and when children ask to pet your dog, ask them if they would like to give your dog a treat too.
  • Nature trails: These are great for both exercise and meeting new people. You’ll also likely encounter different kinds of animals.
  • Outdoor events: Don’t be afraid to expose your dog or puppy to youth sporting events, small festivals, or dog events like fundraising walks.
  • Puppy Parties: Have a puppy party and invite over a few friends each time.
  • Pet Stores: These can be a great opportunity for seeing lots of new things but use caution about unknown dogs you come across. Not all are friendly to rambunctious puppies.
  • Downtown: If you live in a city with a nice downtown area, take your dog for a stroll or visit the local Farmers’ Market.

These are just a few ideas for socializing your dog. Always keep your dog under control, carry lots of treats, and keep it positive. Don’t force your dog into anything! Instead, keep it light-hearted, and if your dog appears overly anxious or overwhelmed, keep it short.

Lifelong socialization is the best way for your dog to learn how to respond with less fear and stress to situations he will encounter throughout his life. It will him to be an overall happier, more balanced pet.

Recommended Books and DVDs for New Puppy Owners

When a Bullmastiff Puppy starts teething (usually around 3 -4 months of age), it can sometimes fold its ears back, resembling the look of the  Bulldogs ears instead of the V-Shape for the Bullmastiff breed.  If you decide not to  tape your puppies ears while  they are folding, the cartilage can often set in that incorrect position, and detracts from the overall appearance of your Bullmastiffs head.

EAR TAPING-By taping, you are training, and hopefully setting the cartilage into the correct position.

Some Bullmastiffs never need their ears taped at all. Others require taping for just a week or two to correct the carriage, and yet for others, it can be a continual struggle for up to twelve months of age.

How do you know when to tape the ears? 

When your puppy goes from this: to this:


Supplies needed:

Sports Tape (These will breathe and they come off fairly nicely)

** First aid tape is being used in following pictures, it does not stick well, use sports tape or duct tape!

Moleskin w/ sticky backing (Available where you purchase foot insoles)

Scissors for cutting the moleskin and tape

Rubbing Alcohol & Cotton Balls

2 quarters or large washers



Clean ears thoroughly and allow to dry completely

Use rubbing alcohol and cotton to clean underside of ear, and outside of ear.  Where ever tape will be applied.

Take one whole piece of moleskin, cut it in half.  Cut each half roughly into the shape of the inside of the ear.

Place the Washer or Quarter on a small piece of Duct Tape, place close to edge of the ear and fold ends over, securing the tape and washer to the ear.


Repeat process on other ear. 

Here's how Aric holds the pup for me while I tape, switching hands, working with me as I go from one ear to the next.  This is a GENTLE hold, nasal passages are very delicate, too much pressure can damage your puppy!

Make your chin strap, place several inches of duct tape sticky side up.  Place another, smaller piece to this, creating a section with no adhesive.

Starting with one ear, tape from the outside of the ear, under the chin, up to the other ear.  CAUTION: Be sure you can get at least 2 fingers between the tape and the puppies chin!  If taped too tightly, not only will this increase the chance of moisture build up, but it can also affect your pup when eating and drinking.  

Secure another strip of tape from one ear, over the top of head to the other ear. (optional) 


Leave tape on for approximately 4 days.  To get the tape off, we use a lot of Baby Oil, working it under the tape and slowly peeling the tape away, the oil helps prevent you from hurting your puppy and prevents most of the hair from coming out. 

Clean ears good after removing tape.  Repeat process as needed between the ages of 3 to 7 months.

Crate Training

For the owner, careful crate training can help with other training, such as housebreaking. Most dogs respect the sanctity of crates and nature directs them against soiling this nest. Thus, a crate becomes a useful place of confinement for a dog that cannot be constantly observed between frequent excursions to an outside “bathroom location.”

No matter what age you begin crate training, all experiences within the crate should be good ones. Ideally, begin with a very young pup (which is the most malleable), and establish good associations with every exposure to the crate. This can be arranged by:

  •   Allowing the pup free access to the crate so that he can come and go at will prior to confining him
  •   Make the crate a comfortable place by putting a blanket and perhaps some toys inside
  •   Praise the pup every time he goes in the crate
  •   Confine the pup (shut the door of the crate) for short periods of time, at first, ensuring that company is at hand (either you or a closely bonded canine counterpart)
  •   Never use the crate as a place of punishment
  •   Make sure that no one disturbs the pup when he is inside the crate so the crate comes to be appreciated as a place of refuge

    Using the above protocol, there is no reason that the dog should not gravitate toward the crate for rest and relaxation. If this is achieved, the dog will find the crate amongst his favorite things in life. 

What size Crate?

Your crate should be big enough so the puppy can stand up and turn around comfortably.  Too much room and he will not feel obligated to keep his crate clean.

Preparing the Crate

Vari-Kennel type: Take the crate apart, removing the screws, the top and the door. Allow your pup to go in and out of the bottom half of the crate before attaching the top half. This stage can require anywhere from several hours to a few days. This step can be omitted in the case of a young puppy who accepts crating right away.

Wire Mesh type: Tie the crate door back so that it stays open without moving or shutting closed. If the crate comes with a floor pan, place a piece of cardboard or a towel between the floor (or crate bottom) and the floor pan in order to keep it from rattling.

Furnishing Your Puppy's Crate

Toys: Place your puppy's favorite toys at the far end opposite the door opening. These toys may include the "Tuffy", "Billy", "Kong", "Nylabone" or a ball. Toys should always be inedible and large enough to prevent their being swallowed. Any fragmented toys should be removed to prevent choking and internal obstruction. 

Bedding: Place a towel or blanket inside the crate to create a soft, comfortable bed for the puppy. If the puppy chews the towel, remove it to prevent the pup from swallowing or choking on the pieces. Although most puppies prefer lying on soft bedding, some may prefer to rest on a hard, flat surface, and may push the towel to one end of the crate to avoid it. If the puppy urinates on the towel, remove bedding until the pup no longer eliminates in the crate.

Location of Crate

Whenever possible, place the crate near or next to you when you are home. This will encourage the pup to go inside it without his feeling lonely or isolated when you go out. A central room in the house (i.e.: living room or kitchen) or a large hallway near the entrance is a good place to crate your puppy.

A Note About Crating Puppies

Puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder or sphincter control. Puppies under 3 months have even less. Very young puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated, as they need to eliminate very frequently (usually 8-12 times or more daily).

Important Reminders

  1. Warm Weather: Do not crate a puppy or dog when temperatures reach an uncomfortable level. Cold water should always be available to puppies, especially during warm weather. (Never leave an unsupervised dog on a terrace, roof or inside a car during warm weather. Also, keep outdoor exercise periods brief until the hot weather subsides.)
  2. Be certain that your puppy has fully eliminated shortly before being crated. Be sure that the crate you are using is not too large to discourage your pup from eliminating in it. Rarely does a pup or dog eliminate in the crate if it is properly sized and the dog is an appropriate age to be crated a given amount of time.

Safe Toys
*Use safe toys only, nothing the dog or puppy can get apart and choke on while you're not there. Rawhide chewies are not good to leave unsupervised dogs with. Squeaky toys need to be monitored because the squeakers can be removed and swallowed and cause the pup to choke.

*Good toys that are safe: Kongs. These are made of hard rubber that is almost impossible to destroy. They come in many different sizes and it have an small opening on one end. Some people put a little peanut butter inside and that gives the pup/dog something do for awhile after you leave. Not a lot of peanut butter, just enough to keep them interested.

Accidents In The Crate

If your puppy messes in his crate while you are out, do not punish him upon your return. Simply wash out the crate using a pet odor neutralizer (such as Nature's Miracle, Nilodor, or Outright). Do not use ammonia-based products, as their odor resembles urine and may draw your dog back to urinate in the same spot again.

Crating Duration Guidelines

  9-10 Weeks Approx. 30-60 minutes
11-14 Weeks Approx. 1-3 hours
15-16 Weeks Approx. 3-4 hours
17 + Weeks Approx. 4+ (6 hours maximum)

*NOTE: Except for overnight, neither puppies nor dogs should be crated for more than 5 hours at a time. (6 hours maximum!)

The Crate As Punishment

NEVER use the crate as a form of punishment or reprimand for your puppy or dog. This simply causes the dog to fear and resent the crate. If correctly introduced to his crate, your puppy should be happy to go into his crate at any time. You may however use the crate as a brief time-out for your puppy as a way of discouraging nipping or excessive rowdiness.

Children And The Crate

Do not allow children to play in your dog's crate or to handle your dog while he/she is in the crate. The crate is your dog's private sanctuary. His/her rights to privacy should always be respected.

 Puppy Care: Introducing a New Puppy to an Older Dog

Bringing home a new puppy is an exciting experience! The puppy is excited, you are excited, but what about your older dog? You remember, the one who has been an only dog for years. It can be done and fairly effortlessly at that.

Dogs, for all their domesticity, still have a pack mentality. You, of course, are the alpha, or head dog. Your older dog will be the beta, or second in command. When bringing a new dog into the pack, your established dog may feel threatened. Be mindful of this. While you do want your newest addition to feel loved and welcomed, you also want your older dog to know that it is still loved very much and its position in the household is secure. There are a variety of things you may do to make this transition from a one dog to a two dog home go smoothly.

Go slowly! This is a brand new place for your puppy and a new situation for your older dog. Don’t rush them into any kind of relationship. Let the puppy explore. Allow them to get acquainted. I would advise here, to stay in close proximity when the dogs are just getting to know each other. Sometimes fights do break out and you won’t want either dog injured.

Spend quality time with each dog separately. This allows you to bond with your puppy and also shows your older dog that it is still an important part of your life. A caution here, don’t spend all of your time with them in separate situations. This may breed jealousy and ill will between dogs.

Play is important. Play with your dogs separately and also have playtime together. Make sure they have plenty of toys and chew toys. Once they begin having fun, it won’t be long until they are playing together and you are the one left out!

Reward good behavior. As mentioned, this is a new situation for both dogs. Reward them with playtime or treats so that they know that they are moving in the right direction.

This all may sound like a lot of work, but it truly isn’t. Once your dogs develop a relationship, your diligence will be awarded with twice the love!

Could your Dog be Suffering from Canine Acne?

Everyone knows of acne as a human condition suffered by unfortunate teenagers during adolescence, but it is in fact quite common in certain breeds of dog too. The most susceptible breeds are young adult boxers, English bulldogs, Doberman pinschers, Great Danes and Rottweilers. The condition starts at puberty around 5 to 8 months of age. Most dogs improve with age and the condition typically resolves after one year of age, though some dogs can develop chronic acne.

Dogs with canine acne develop multiple comedones (blackheads) on their chin, lips, and muzzle. Plugs of debris made of natural substances such as keratin and sebum block the hair follicles, causing focal swellings which can rupture to form scabs.

Dogs with this condition have swellings, scabs and blackheads on their lips, chin and muzzle. These usually do not bother the dog unless a secondary bacterial skin infection develops. This can cause pain and itching, leading the dog to scratch at his/her face or rub it along the carpet.

Diagnosis is usually straight forward: the characteristic appearance described above, in one of the known susceptible breeds is usually sufficient. Your vet may decide to take a skin biopsy for confirmation, which can be done under sedation, local or general anaesthetic and then sent off to a histopathologist for analysis.

Canine acne cannot really be cured, but can be controlled. Mild cases are usually not treated. The first step is always to rule out other conditions such as demodecosis (a mite infestation), ringworm and puppy strangles. The latter also causes anorexia and depression so if your dog is bright with a good appetite, it is unlikely to be this. Also important is to uncover any predisposing factors such as underlying allergies. Some of the breeds mentioned above, such as Boxers, are particularly susceptible to food allergy. Regular cleaning with anti-acne products (eg benzoyl peroxide) or mild anti-seborrheic shampoos will be required to decrease the bacterial load of the skin and remove cellular debris which could contribute to blocking the pores.

If pustules have ruptured and a secondary bacterial infection develops, your dog will need to take antibiotics for 3 or 4 weeks. Most broad spectrum antibiotics are effective, but to avoid any resistance problems a bacteriology swab is advisable so that a suitable antibiotic can be chosen with certain efficacy against the bacterium in question.

If a dog is scratching at his/her face a lot, an anti-inflammatory drug such as a one off steroid injection is probably indicated to alleviate the discomfort.

Refractory and recurrent cases can sometimes respond to retinoid therapy, similar to the human drug Roaccutane, which essentially stops the sebaceous glands in the skin from producing sebum. This however requires a veterinary specialists consent. 

Dogs and Pets Provide Health Benefits

Do dogs provide health benefits? Believe it or not they do! Did you know that owning a dog and pet ownership in general, can help a person in many ways? Owning a pet can improve your mental wellness, reduce your visits to the doctor, improve your cardiovascular health and allow for faster recovery time from surgery as well as higher survival rates. Recent research suggests that dogs may be able to detect cancer on a person's breath! Lets' explore these amazing health benefits of pet ownership:

It has been proven that dog owners have lower blood pressure and cholesterol levels than non-dog owners. These factors, in turn, reduce the chance of cardiovascular diseases. In fact, just stroking a pet has long been known to reduce blood pressure. Furthermore, a study from the New York State University concluded that these benefits continue even without the pet being present!

Hospital studies have shown that senior citizens and recent post-op patients respond better to treatment and recover faster while in contact with dogs and other therapy animals. Did you know that dog owners have a greater chance to survive a serious illness than non-dog owners? In fact, a study revealed that a pet affected a person's survival rate even more than the presence or company of family members or friends!

Studies conducted at Cambridge and UCLA concluded that there is a direct correlation between pet ownership and improved overall health, which leads to fewer visits to the doctor. The Journal of American Geriatrics Society notes that pet ownership has a positive effect on a senior's physical and emotional well being. Additionally, a Medicare study of elderly patients also shows that people who own a dog have fewer doctor visits than patients who do not.

Pet owners have better emotional health and mental wellness than people who do not own a pet. Pets offer unconditional love and affection and their presence alone helps reduce loneliness. For people who are isolated, disabled or handicapped, a pet offers friendship and can even add a element of safety to their lives. Dogs are used as a form of therapy in hospices, nursing homes and as companions for the disabled and blind. In fact, there are studies that prove that people with a major illness fight the stress of having the illness better by having a dog as a pet.

There is new research that suggests that dogs may be able to detect certain types of cancer. Researchers at the Pine Street Foundation in San Anselmo, California and the Polish Academy of Sciences exposed dogs to breath samples from breast and lung cancer patients and samples from healthy people. They claim that the dogs were able to detect cancer with astonishing results and accuracy. The dogs were able to identify 99% of lung cancer breath samples (which included early stage cancer patients) as well as 88% of breast cancer samples. The study, which has been met with skepticism, will be released early in 2006 and published in the March edition of the Journal for Integrative Cancer Therapies. Experts agree that this holds promise, but must be evaluated and researched further.

As you can see pet ownership or having a dog comes with many benefits for an individual. Owning a pet encourages social interaction, reduces stress levels, boosts self-confidence and self-esteem and encourages exercise. Having a pet is a great investment, not only in the joy and pleasure that the animal brings into your life, but the many health benefits that come with the territory!

Can I Put My Pet In My Will?

Boca Raton, FLA --- Have you ever wondered what to do with your pet if you suddenly passed away? Who is going to take care of it? What if it gets sick and needs medical attention? Who is going to pay the medical bills? Who is going to pay for routine shots? These are many questions you may ask yourself in thinking about this confusing topic.

Stated in an article on, the Uniform Trust Act of 2000 does not allow you to will property to an animal per se, but it allows you to set up a trust for the continuing care of your pet. The Act itself is an example of the increased recognition of animal interests.

As of right now, there are roughly thirty-one states that now recognize pet trusts. These trusts allow for the owner to name a pet as a beneficiary and to name a trustee to take care of the pet.

Make plans for your pet.

According to an article written by Eileen Ambrose of The Baltimore Sun, it is important that people make plans for what will happen to their pet. And whether they end up creating a pet trust, setting money aside in a will for care or use some other means, the issues owners face will be similar. For instance, pet owners need to find a caretaker and someone to manage the money left behind for the pet’s benefit. Usually the same person handles both roles. Look for someone who is responsible, capable of handling money and likes animals.

Other suggestions in the article encourage you to:

• Name one or two backups in case the trustee cannot fulfill the job.

•Make sure there is enough money to cover pet expenses.

• Write a care plan, basically a memo detailing the veterinarian’s name.

• Include in the care plan the pet’s routine, medications, likes and dislikes.

Drafting a Trust

You will want to include specific information in the trust.

• The name and address of a trustee and an alternate trustee.

Puppy Training Tips

With more and more people buying dogs the need for good training is become a necessity. There are tons of people out there who are buying dogs because they are cute and lovable. And yes, that is a great reason to buy a puppy, but if you are going to purchase a dog, you must be ready to take care of it the right way. Below is a list of do’s and don’ts for you new puppy. These training rules can be used as a basic outline for ensuring that your puppy will be well behaved for its entire life. Remember, if you train them when they are puppies, and stick with it, your dog will be well behaved for its entire life (exceptions do apply of course!)

1. Be sure to train your puppy to be comfortable staying in a crate for an extended period of time. This is often overlooked because most people want to play with their new puppy 24 hours a day, seven days a week. You can work up to a longer period of time by first start with small durations. For example, keep your puppy in its crate for 15 minutes every night. Do not pay any attention to it. After the 15 minutes take the puppy out and reward it for its good behavior. Every night you can extend the duration of time, and soon enough your new puppy will be comfortable in its crate.

2. Teach your puppy early and often that it is not acceptable to jump up on guests when they enter your house, or while they are trying to eat. This is not only a bad habit for the dog, but it is also very disrespectful to your guests. The first couple of times that your new puppy does this be sure to correct it in a positive manner. The most important thing to remember is to not let the puppy ever get away with this. If it happens once, it can happen again. And after a habit is established it will be much tougher to break.

3. Absolutely no chasing or running after other animals, or other people. A lot of puppies get into the habit of chasing after anything that will run from it. This goes for animals that it may see in the yard, or the mailman who visits your house everyday. After breaking this habit you will be glad that you did; just ask your mailman!

4. Train your dog to quit barking when told. This can be one of the tougher habits to break, especially if you get a dog who loves to bark. The most important thing to remember is to stay persistent with this one. If your dog is barking when it should not be, correct it every time. Do not give up on your persistence, and you will have success in the end.

5. A new puppy should never be allowed to be protective of its toys, food, or bed. Try to break your new puppy of this habit as soon as possible. You will be able to tell if this is a problem by a simple test. When your dog gets done playing with a toy attempt to pick it up and take it away. If the puppy snaps at you are growls, then you have this problem. Be sure to remedy it as soon as possible. If you let it go too long this can turn into a serious problem at a later date.

6. Make sure that your new puppy can be left alone without supervision. Also make sure that when left alone, your puppy is not destructive. Again, like the crate exercise discussed above, leave your puppy at home alone for a few minutes at a time. Eventually you will be built up to the point where you can leave your new puppy at home for hours on end without ever having to worry about coming home to a huge mess!

7. Make sure that your puppy is comfortable in places other than its home. Making your puppy feel comfortable outside of its comfort zone will surely make your life easier as the years pass. This is very important because your new puppy will eventually have to spend time at the veterinarian, a kennel, groomer, or at another person’s house. If you miss out on training your dog for this, you will be held down by it for the rest of your life. If you can never leave your dogs side, you will surely feel the effects anytime it needs a haircut, a vaccine, or if you ever decide to take a vacation. Do not miss out on this training step!

Overall, these seven training rules will surely make your relationship with your new puppy a positive experience.

• The name and address of the caregiver and an alternate caregiver. (It may be beneficial to name the same person as the trustee and the caregiver)

• Detailed information on the identity of your pet. (microchip or papers)

• The standard living and care you wish for your pet.

• A detailed description of the property that will fund the trust.

• Information on how the remainder of the trust should be distributed once your pet dies.

• Instructions on the final disposition of your pet’s body.

According to an article by Richard Willing of USA Today, the average amount left to pets is about $25,000. It was also stated in the article that according to a 2000 survey by the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association that Americans own roughly 68 million dogs and 73 million cats. The impulse to protect them after one’s demise has always been strong and, for some, overwhelming.

Games to play with your puppy/dog!

 Games to Play with Your Dog

People who regularly play with their dog develop understanding, respect and communication with their dog. Games are activities you do with your dog that require the two of you to communicate and work together in some way. While some would argue with me I also distinguish games from sports. Games may have a goal but they have no titles, no placements, no ribbons. Games might even involve competition - but it is competition of the moment. Playing games with your dog is really good for your relationship. Remember that while dogs are not humans in fur suits they are social creatures and playing is an important element in developing social relationships. Playing games is a fundamental way of "modeling" real life. You can teach a dog to obey by playing games that make following your instructions fun. Don't believe me? Think about kids and how much they enjoy "Follow the leader" and "Simon Says" Think about all the games kids play that involve following (or failing to follow) directions. Kids learn from this and so do dogs. And handled properly the learning is a very positive experience.

These are games and ideas submitted from a variety of sources. For the most part I've posted them without editing.

  1. Follow the Leader
  2. Find the Treat
  3. Hide and Seek
  4. My Dog Can Do That

Books and Videos

Games and Puzzles for People

Toys for Bored Dogs

Sports and Activities that are fun for both of you


Follow the Leader

A really fun game I play with my dogs and my puppy classes is follow the leader.

I set up lots of puppy obstacles and traffic cones in no particular order and give each handler the opportunity the chance to be leader. All you need are three dogs and handlers. In the summer (actually most of the year here in Florida) I include a shallow wading pool, also some piles of balls or Frisbees. Well, you get the idea.

Find the Treat

I put my dogs on a "down" stay then I put treats in a variety of hiding places. They have to wait until I'm all done hiding them. When I say "GO!" the dog run around trying to each get the most treats. Carol

Hide and Seek

I play hide and seek with my dog. I put him on a sit or down wait. Then I hide. When I am ready I call him. Watch out they sometimes peek. This is good for teaching the dog to wait until called as well as fun for you and your dog. Judy

My Dog Can Do That!

This is a game published with training tips written by Dr. Ian Dunbar & Terry Ryan. It has cards with tricks or performances of varying levels of difficulty. The more difficult the performance the more points for correctly performing it. The game is sold through a wide variety of dog books and dog supply retailers. See the review by Lynn Richards

Tricks (Performance Art) - most dogs think that doing tricks if a kind of game. And if you use clicker training often the dog thinks he's training you. "Let's see ..... if I do this .... I can make her give me a treat!"

Clicker Training

Clicker training is great for teaching tricks as well as agility, obedience and much more

More Resources on Games to enjoy with your dog
Games Dogs Love

An explanation of the bonding good games encourage plus some fun but simple games for you and your dog.

Belgian Games

A wonderful and quite long list of interesting games.


Books and Video

The linked books take you to You can get most of the books in lots of places but purchasing through these links helps support DogPlay - and I like the folks at Dogwise.

Caninestein : Unleashing the Genius in YOUR Dog

This book by Betty Fisher is slim and not at all intimidating but filled with a variety of activities for you and your dog.

Totally Fun Things To Do With Your Dog by Maxine Rock

This book is one for kids to enjoy with their dog.

More Fun And Games With Dogs by Roy Hunter

Fun And Games With Dogs by Roy Hunter

Fun And Games With Your Dog by Gerd Ludwig

Life Beyond Block Heeling by Terry Ryan

Popular Dogs: Tricks & Games by Dog Fancy Magazine, Editors

Beyond Fetch - Fun, Interactive Activities For You And Your Dog by D. Caroline Coile

Games and Puzzles for People

Dog Lover Wordsearches:

Draw 50 Dogs

Gone Fishin' Puzzle